Dynamics of Infragravity Waves Across the Southern Reef Barrier of Mayotte, Indian Ocean

Abstract Due to climate change, tropical islands are being increasingly exposed to coastal hazards. Under energetic incident swells, infragravity (IG) waves can have a key contribution to extreme water levels and flooding, but their dynamics at barrier reef remains little studied. In this context, this study analyses IG wave generation mechanisms and transformations across a barrier reef to the southwest of Mayotte (Indian Ocean), combining a new comprehensive field dataset with phase resolving wave modelling. This analysis reveals that IG waves are mostly breakpoint-forced and suffer a substantial dissipation by bottom friction, particularly at low tide. Numerical experiments with reduced bottom friction representing a degraded coral reef suggest that IG waves would grow by about 20% across the reef at high tide. This study highlights the key role of coral reefs to dissipate IG waves and hence limit extreme water levels and subsequent coastal hazards.