Adsorption of Cationic Lignin Derivatives on Negatively Charged Model Surfaces and Hair Fibers: Implications for Hair Conditioning Performance

The application of cosmetic ingredients into hair formulations relies on their extensive characterization and on understanding their mechanisms of action. Specifically, in the case of hair conditioning agents, their efficiency in treating hair must be proved before testing them on real complex formulations. In this work, we investigate the deposition of three cationic polymers onto model surfaces that mimic the negative surface potential of highly damaged hair. Two CHPTAC-cationized lignins (CL0.34 and CL0.61) were evaluated and compared with a commercial polyquaternium (PQ11). The two selected lignin derivatives exhibited different degrees of cationic substitution (DS) and ζ-potential (CL0.34: DS = 0.34 ± 0.01 and ζ-potential = 12.8 ± 0.4 mV; CL0.61: DS = 0.61 ± 0.03 and ζ-potential = 18.8 ± 0.3 mV). Atomic force microscopy (AFM) and quartz crystal microbalance with dissipation monitoring (QCM-D) were used to evaluate the adsorbed layers formed by the polymers and their mechanical properties. Among the tested lignin conditioning agents, CL0.61 exhibited conditioning behavior, forming layers whose properties closely resembled those of the benchmark polymer PQ11. CL0.61 and PQ11 were both efficient at reducing the frizz effect on real bleached hair, effectively overcompensating the hair surface potential, which shifted from negative to positive values, confirming their effective adsorption after conditioning and rinsing. By combining advanced interfacial characterization with structure-property-function relationships, this work provides fundamental insights into polymer adsorption and performance at biointerfaces, supporting the rational design of functional materials and highlighting the potential of cationic lignin derivatives as viable, biobased conditioning agents for future hair-care formulations.