Skin longevity and dermal health: Analyzing the reshaping action of fenugreek from MAPK pathway to 3D stereophotogrammetry

The cosmetics industry is evolving from a focus on reducing visible signs of ageing to a more holistic and preventive outlook. This has led to the “skin longevity” concept, which aims to maintain healthy, resilient skin by supporting its ability to cope with stress factors [ 1 ]. In line with this, we developed a hydrophilic extract from sprouts of Trigonella foenum-graecum (Tfex), a plant long used in oriental medicine for its revitalising properties. Tfex, characterised through HPLC-DAD-HESI-MS/MS and HPLC-DAD, is rich in trigonelline (1.13±0.12 mg/g dry extract), apigenin, and vitexin. We assessed its effects on senescence and oxidative stress, focusing on β-galactosidase [ 2 ] and SOD (superoxide dismutase), a key antioxidant enzyme [ 3 ]. As oxidative stress activates the MAPK pathway and increases MMP-1 expression—leading to collagen I breakdown and ECM disruption—Tfex’s activity suggests a protective effect on dermal integrity [ 4 ]. To evaluate clinical efficacy, a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial was conducted on 42 women (45-65 y.o.) with facial sagging. Over 56 days, treatment with a Tfex-containing emulgel improved hydration, firmness, and collagen content. 3D stereophotogrammetry revealed c-line redefinition and double chin volume reduction, contributing to the restoration of the facial triangle of youth. The reshaping action of Tfex, rich in bioactive molecules, counteracts collagen degradation and damage to the dermis structure. It restores the triangle of youth overcoming the ayurvedic medicine restraints through a scientifically validated protocol, fusing ancient traditions with cutting-edge technologies ([ Fig. 1 ]). Fig. 1 Trigonella foenum-graecum (Tfex) mechanism of action. Publication History Article published online: 05 March 2026 © 2026. Thieme. All rights reserved. Georg Thieme Verlag KG Oswald-Hesse-Straße 50, 70469 Stuttgart, Germany