Plant oils for dermal applications: Fatty acid composition determines pro-regenerative effects on skin cells in vitro

Keratinocytes and fibroblasts play fundamental roles in skin function, contributing to normal physiological processes, tissue repair and overall skin health. While plant oils are commonly used in dermal applications, their specific effects on skin cells remain incompletely understood [ 1 ] [ 2 ]. This study examined the influence of selected plant oils, fatty acids and unsaponifiable compounds on the proliferation and migration of human keratinocytes and fibroblasts in vitro . Oils were selected based on their specific fatty acid profiles, including coconut, olive, linden, poppy, pomegranate, marigold and linseed oils [ 3 ]. Cell proliferation and migration were assessed using MTS and gap closure assays. Our results showed that the tested biological activity of the oils depended primarily on the fatty acid composition of their triglycerides. Oils rich in essential fatty acids, particularly linoleic acid, significantly promoted cell proliferation. In contrast, unsaponifiable compounds showed no effect, while punicic acid and pomegranate seed oil had a significant negative impact. The oils did not exert notable effects on the closure rate of the artificial wound gap; however, sterculic and oleic acids inhibited gap closure and induced changes in cell morphology. These findings support the role of plant oils and their composition in enhancing skin cell regeneration, and provide in vitro evidence to support their application in cosmetic and dermatological formulations aimed at skin repair and evidence-based skincare. Publication History Article published online: 05 March 2026 © 2026. Thieme. All rights reserved. Georg Thieme Verlag KG Oswald-Hesse-Straße 50, 70469 Stuttgart, Germany