Characterization of polyurethane binder in leather finishing process and its application for formal shoe manufacturing

Cow leather is a common and popular shoe material. This material is often used in making formal shoes. Polyurethane binder is very commonly used in the leather finishing process, this material can produce a specific gloss effect, for example matt or gloss. This study aims to compare the characteristics of polyurethane matt (PUM) and gloss (PUG) binders, as well as the characteristics of leather that has been finished using these binders. Apart from that, this research also analyzes the effect of finished leather with matt and gloss effects when used as raw material for women’s formal shoes. This research was carried out in two stages. The first is the upper cow finishing process using PUM and PUG. Second is the application of finished leather to make women’s formal shoes. The tests carried out were FTIR, SEM and rubbing fastness test. The FTIR test results show that there are O-Si-O groups in the PUM material. The SEM test results of the PUM sample show that the skin surface appears rougher when compared to PUG. The results of the PUM and PUG rubbing fastness tests showed good results, namely 4/5 (not faded). During the shoe upper assembly process, there is no significant difference between PUM leather and PUG leather. However, in the aging process, PUG leather shows more wrinkles than PUM leather.