Development of Efficient Supramolecular Photostabilizer for Carotenoids and Retinoids: Analyses and Application Research

ABSTRACT Background Carotenoids and retinol are well known for their potent antioxidant and biological properties in pharmaceuticals, foods, and cosmetics. However, their poor photostability presents a significant challenge that cannot be effectively addressed through simple formulation strategies such as encapsulation. Although photostabilizers are commonly employed to enhance product photostability, there remains a lack of highly water‐soluble and legitimate stabilizers suitable for commercial cosmetic applications. Aims To develop a novel aqueous‐phase photostabilizer simultaneously boosting carotenoid and retinol shelf‐life in cosmetics and meeting global safety standards. Underlying mechanism and application are investigated. Methods Micellar supramolecular complex crocin–Na 2 GA was prepared by mechanochemistry; thermal stability, storage stability, and photo‐oxidative degradation were tested. Then, photoprotection of carotenoids and retinoids by crocin–Na 2 GA in aqua solution, cream‐based formulations, and on an artificial skin model was tested. Finally, cyclic voltammetry was applied for mechanism research. Results Experiments demonstrated that the light‐induced degradation of astaxanthin, β‐carotene, and retinol in aqueous solutions, cream formulations, and on skin was significantly reduced upon the addition of crocin–Na 2 GA. These findings indicated that crocin–Na 2 GA possessed remarkable photoprotective properties. Mechanistic studies further revealed that within the stable nano micellar system of crocin–Na 2 GA, crocin was readily photoactivated and scavenged photoinduced radicals through a self‐sacrificial mechanism, thereby preventing the photodegradation of active constituents during the storage and application phases of creams. Conclusions Collectively, these results highlight the potential of crocin–Na 2 GA as a highly efficient, safe, and cost‐effective photostabilizer, making it a promising candidate for incorporation into cosmetic formulations.