The breaking wave spectra in finite water depth

In this study, we modify the Pierson-Moskowitz spectrum for both shoaling and breaking conditions for irregular wave train propagating from deep water to the shore line in the monotonically decreasing water depth with straight and parallel sea bottom contours. The breaking criterion for finite water depth is extend from Battjes ( 1974 ) for the elevation of finite bandwidth breaking wave in terms of original ideal waves and water depth. The original ideal waves assume to be Gaussian, stationary and zero-mean (Phillips, 1980). These breaking wave spectra are derived based on the stochastic processes. The numerical results of these breaking spectra are comparison with different water depths and peak frequencies graphically.