Modulation of water waves through an uneven sea floor
Abstract
Transformations of finite amplitude progressive waves due to an uneven sea floor were studied both numerically as well as experimentally. The numerical analyses were carried out in two steps. Linear wave theory was used as a first order approximation. Solutions thus obtained were then used as initial conditions for the nonlinear wave analysis. As a verification of the numerical results, experiments were then carried out in the laboratory of the Department of River and Harbour Engineering of the National Taiwan Ocean University. The agreements are satisfactory. This paper summarizes the present results.
Fields of Study & Subjects
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Nonlinear Waves and Solitons
Publication details
- Journal / source
- CRC Press eBooks
- Pages
- 319–332
- Publication date
- 10 February 2026
- Language
- EN
- Document type
- Book chapter