An extension of Boussinesq type model to the surf zone
Abstract
A flow model based on the extension to the surf zone of the Boussinesq equations has been developed. The energy dissipation caused by breakers turbulence is evaluated by introducing the concept of the “surface roller”. Its contribution is, as a first approximation, an hydrostatic pressure term. The computed results have been compared with experimental data for monochromatic waves spilling on gentle slopes.
Fields of Study & Subjects
Coastal and Marine Dynamics
Ocean Waves and Remote Sensing
Aquatic and Environmental Studies
Publication details
- Journal / source
- CRC Press eBooks
- Pages
- 349–360
- Publication date
- 10 February 2026
- Language
- EN
- Document type
- Book chapter