Natural dye plants in traditional batik production and their potential as plant-derived pigments

Abstract. Hapsari AN, Nurrizqi AY, Nurrosidah AN, Maharani AC, Indrawan M, Saensouk S, Setyawan AD. 2025. Natural dye plants in traditional batik production and their potential as plant-derived pigments. Asian J Nat Prod Biochem 23: 153-163. Plant-derived natural dyes have attracted renewed interest as alternative pigment sources due to growing concerns over the environmental and health implications of synthetic dyes. Traditional dyeing practices offer process-based systems in which pigment extraction, transformation, and application are achieved using low-input operational controls. This study documents plant species used as natural dyes in traditional batik production at Batik Tjap Tiga Negeri, Laweyan Batik Village, Surakarta, Central Java, Indonesia, and discusses their relevance as plant-derived pigment sources within a natural product and biochemical context. Observations were conducted during active dye production to record plant species utilized, plant parts used, extraction methods, dye application procedures, and handling of residual materials. A total of seven plant species were identified as components of the dyeing system, including Indigofera tinctoria, Caesalpinia sappan, Cudrania javanensis, Swietenia mahagoni, Symplocos fasciculata, Tectona grandis, and Acacia spp. Dye extraction involved fermentation or aqueous heat-based processes, while dye application relied on repeated dipping and drying cycles. Variation in color intensity was associated with differences in dyeing duration and the number of application cycles. The results indicate that traditional dyeing systems function as low-input pigment processing frameworks in which color outcomes are regulated through process variables such as fermentation, pH adjustment, and repeated application. Literature-based synthesis further shows that the documented dye plants are associated with reported pigment classes, including indigoids, homoisoflavonoids, flavonoid-related pigments, and tannin-rich polyphenols. Although no chemical analyses were performed, the study highlights traditional dyeing systems as low-input pigment processing models and identifies candidate plant sources for future biochemical characterization and natural product research.