Porphyra sensu lato Species as Source for Biological UV Photoprotectors and Antioxidants to Develop Cosmeceutical Products

Porphyra sensu lato is a promising source of natural photoprotective and antioxidant compounds for cosmeceutical applications. This study evaluated the geographical and temporal variability of bioactive compounds in Porphyra and Pyropia spp. from Chile and Spain and assessed their applicability in topical photoprotective formulations. Antioxidant capacity, soluble polyphenols, phycobiliproteins, and mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs) were quantified in different species, collection sites, and sampling periods. In parallel, selected Pyropia elongata extracts were incorporated into water-in-oil creams, alone or combined with vegetable oils and physical UV filters, and in vitro SPF/UVAPF values were determined using the PMMA plate transmittance method. Marked variability was observed among species, sites, and collection dates. In P. elongata, total MAAs ranged approximately from 3 to 6 mg.g−1 DW, while porphyra-334 was the dominant MAA, accounting for about 70–100% of total MAAs across samples. A positive correlation was found between soluble polyphenol concentration and ABTS antioxidant activity. In the formulations, Pyropia extracts increased absorbance mainly in the UVB–UVA range and improved SPF and UVA-related protection, particularly when combined with karanja and calophyll oils and physical filters. These results support Porphyra sensu lato biomass as a flexible natural reservoir for developing sustainable bio-based photoprotective products.