Studies on Sustainable Silk Wet Processing Practices in South Indian Silk Clusters

Silk has been celebrated for its superior textile qualities, including strength, elasticity, excellent drapability, and natural lustre. Despite these advantages the wet fastness of dyed silk remains problematic, particularly in the context of conventional / traditional dyeing processes prevalent in silk clusters of southern India. These traditional units commonly employ open pan vessels with direct heating and operate without adherence to standard processing methods and quality standards regarding dyes, chemicals, auxiliaries, and water. Such practices, often managed by experienced but informally trained personnel, lead to inadequate color fastness, diminished tensile strength, and uneven dyeing results. In response, the improved Tub dyeing method has emerged as a promising contemporary alternative. This process utilizes stainless steel tubs lined with steam pipes and steam boilers for controlled heating, alongside standardized dyes from reputable suppliers, thereby enabling improved process consistency and reproducibility. In this study, silk yarns were dyed using both conventional-traditional open pan method and the Tub dyeing technique with acid, direct, and metal complex dyes. The dyed samples were evaluated for dye uptake, color fastness, and tensile properties. Comparative analysis revealed that silk fabrics processed via the Tub dyeing method exhibited significantly higher exhaustion, better color fastness, and better retention of tensile strength relative to those treated with the traditional method. These findings highlight the importance of Tub dyeing technique as a viable means to upgrade traditional silk processing units and processing standards, enhance dyed silk yarn performance, and address key quality challenges, thereby contributing to the competitiveness of the Indian silk industry in both domestic and export markets