Textiles in Theatrical Performance

This chapter charts the progression of textiles in relation to theatrical costume in Britain, from the medieval mystery plays and elaborate court masque performances of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries through to the twenty-first century. Each subsection will explore how the principles of costuming a production have evolved, providing an overview of the design and application of textiles for costume within the broader context of the development of live performance. This chapter will also investigate the range of textures, colours, materials, and decorative and symbolic embellishment techniques used in costume construction throughout this period. It will discuss how the narrative properties of cloth within a costume have been employed as a semiotic tool for characterisation, subconsciously relating the class, culture and social standing of a character to the audience within the often-anachronistic historical setting of the text. Consideration of how fabrics and decorative textiles have been utilised on stage within interpretations of period costume will also be included, illustrating how the representation of earlier eras has always been influenced by contemporary theatrical conventions, fashions for stylisation and realism, and a reliance on available materials. Examples of notable performances and the work of influential costume practitioners will be used throughout to highlight and visually illustrate significant developments in textiles for performance costume. Extant costumes, renderings and primary and secondary documentary sources will also be acknowledged.