Geometry of breaking waves at natural sea

Breaking wave geometry has historically been investigated through laboratory studies, with very limited open ocean observations. Understanding wave geometry is key for modeling air-sea gas exchange, energy dissipation, and satellite measurements. We measured the geometry—including area, length, height, duration, and speed—of over 16000 breaking waves in the Black Sea. Our analysis reveals that real-world breaking waves do not conform to a self-similar geometry, nor are there predictable relationships between a wave's breaking speed and its geometric properties. The results indicate that wave breaking geometry is complex and sea-state dependent.