Kum Dye in Manipur: Safeguarding Cultural Heritage and Traditional Practices to Ensure Sustainable Revitalisation

Abstract The traditional use of Kum dye, derived from Strobilanthus flaccidifolius, has played a significant role in the textile heritage of Manipur, particularly among the Meitei community. It explores the legacy of Kum dye, highlighting its traditional extraction and dyeing methods, socio-cultural importance, and the challenges it faces due to the rise of synthetic dyes. Historically, Kum dye has been integral to the production of Kum-dyed Phanek (KDP), a formal folk dress of Meitei women, symbolizing cultural identity and social status. The dyeing process, dating back to the 11th century AD, involves fermenting leaves and young shoots, using calcined oyster shell ash (kum sunu) as a mordant, and applying it repeatedly to achieve a deep blue-black colour. Despite its deep-rooted significance, Kum dye has declined due to the increased accessibility of chemical dyes, resulting in a loss of Indigenous knowledge and a reduction in the availability of Strobilanthus flaccidifolius. However, recent revival efforts focus on sustainable cultivation, modernizing traditional techniques, and promoting eco-friendly textile industries. This article emphasizes the need to preserve Kum dye for its cultural and historical value and potential in sustainable fashion and economic development. By integrating traditional knowledge with contemporary innovations, Kum dye can be revitalized, ensuring the continuity of Manipur’s rich textile heritage while fostering environmentally responsible alternatives in the global market. Keywords: Kum dye, Strobilanthus flaccidifolius, Manipur, traditional dyeing, cultural heritage, sustainable textiles.