Blending Tailoring and Tessellation – A New Framework for Zero Waste Pattern Cutting [may be later titled 'Tailoring, Jigsawing and Tessellation – Developing a Zero Waste Pattern Cutting Methodology']

Background Yearly the fast-fashion industry is responsible for 1.9 billion tonnes of textiles waste, (Igini, 2023). It is one of the largest contributors to landfill. In response, fashion practitioners such as McQuillan & Rissen (2015), Ramkalaon & Sayem (2021) and Helmersson (2023) have provided zero-waste frameworks as a move away from the fast fashion model to reduce textile waste commencing at the pattern development stage. These frameworks, though useful, often rely on multiple garment types or the inclusion of different sizes in a lay plan with silhouettes that are loose-fitting, to make the framework achievable. Reliance on adding more than one garment type to a lay to reduce waste carries risk, as both garments need to be equally profitable. Consideration of fabric width to meet zero-waste targets is not considered which is notable as cloth can be woven to varying widths to accommodate a lay. In addition, the silhouettes produced by these frameworks can lie outside of acceptable aesthetics making them unfamiliar to consumers thereby impacting sales and creating more waste through unsold products. Purpose This research provides a new zero waste pattern development framework based on utilisation of 100% of the fabric containing a single garment for both tailored and loose-fitting styles thereby broadening the appeal of the garment to a wider consumer market and facilitating opportunities for ready-to-wear retailers to adopt this framework. Methodology A practice-based approach was undertaken to develop lay plans using tessellation of the pattern pieces for each garment on different fabric widths. Tailoring techniques were used within the construction of each garment type to provide shape. Garments were constructed and fit tested to check silhouette/fit were correct. The process was documented at each stage to produce a framework. Results The resulting collection of garments demonstrated that the zero-waste pattern-cutting framework produced garments with accessible silhouettes that were reproducible. The results demonstrated that different sizes were easily accommodated given different fabric widths. The findings illustrated the emergence of a new skill set where design and pattern development were blended into one process. Impact The research added to the existing body of knowledge around zero-waste cutting and tailoring practice. The framework has implications for fashion educators as the process can be taught, making it open for new and existing industry fashion practitioners to understand and adopt.