Artificial Ageing of Cellulose-Derived Fibres Under Abiotic Conditions for the Characterisation of Degradation Markers

There has recently been renewed interest in cellulose-derived fibres, both for their historical significance and their potential to replace synthetic fibres in the textile industry. One aspect is that these fibres are increasingly present in heritage collections due to their early adoption in the 1900s and the contemporary shift toward sustainable textiles. By contrast, due to their biodegradable nature and more sustainable life cycle, there has been a surge in demand from the textile industry. Despite their growing importance, the long-term degradation behaviour of cellulose-derived fibres remains insufficiently understood, particularly regarding abiotic environmental conditions. This thesis investigates the degradation of cellulose-derived fibres in the context of cultural heritage preservation and environmental textile waste. This work explores how their chemical and structural properties govern their interactions with their degradation environments through developing accelerated ageing methods to evaluate a range of degradation drivers, enabling precise monitoring of fibre deterioration. Key degradation factors include temperature, relative humidity, pH, and ultraviolet light. By analysing a broad sample set, from historic textiles to unaged textiles, the study establishes a robust framework for applying analytical techniques across conservation and sustainability contexts. A multifaceted approach is employed, combining infrared spectroscopy, gas chromatography, X-ray diffraction, and microscopy to identify and evaluate key degradation markers. The thesis further enhances the applicability of these techniques by establishing correlations between physical metrics, such as mass loss and discolouration, to improve the tracking and interpretation of degradation mechanisms. By bridging heritage science and environmental sustainability, this research provides interdisciplinary insights into the cellulose-derived fibre degradation process, with applicability across conservation and waste management. Its findings contribute to improved conser vation strategies for historical textiles while also informing the degradation behaviour of these materials as textile waste.